Extension Spotlight

For most home lawn grasses mowing at a height of two to three and a half inches is best, according to Colorado State University Turf Specialist Tony Koski. If you have a different grass such as Bermuda or Zoysiagrass then mow to a height of three-quarters of an inch to one and a half inch.

Proper mowing heights for different grass species is encouraged. The side effects of mowing too low end up placing more stress on your grass. Why? The lower you mow the less surface area left on the grass blade to produce food for the grass plant. Mowing at lower heights causes more frequent mowing and reduce root depth and health.

Mowing a third of the grass blade’s height will not stress out the grass. If you let your grass grow too tall for one reason or another, then cut on the highest setting and wait a couple of days and then go in and mow by taking a third of the blade. It takes a while to get back to mowing at the proper height.

Do you collect your clippings every time you mow? Here are CSU Tony Koski’s explanation as to why not collecting is a good practice: return nutrients to the soil, return organic matter to the soil, keeps the clippings out of the landfill, reduce the severity of certain diseases and returns the pesticides to the turf system.

Fertilizing the lawn is best done in the fall to encourage better root growth. Nitrogen is the most important element in a lawn fertilizer because it stimulates good shoot growth. That means there is nourishment for healthy grass blades. Older lawns need less fertilization. Some species of grass such as native grasses like buffalo grass need no fertilization.

The thicker you keep your turf the less chance weed seeds can get started. For an alternative to traditional fertilizers here is one called Juicy Lawn™ which contains 15 percent organic matter. It is safe for pets. It mixes well with water and is pesticide free.

The most efficient time to irrigate is when there is dew/guttation fluid on the grass. Otherwise, follow a 9 p.m. to 9 a.m. schedule. Keep in within your town’s guidelines if you have water restrictions.

For those wanting other more natural choices for weed control, Sarritor, a broad leaf weed control is a new product. It contains a fungal pathogen called Sclerotinia minor. It works like 2,4-D a broad-leafed weed control to kill dandelions and a host of other weeds. It takes five to seven days to kill the weeds. Once the weeds are gone, the fungus dies and there are no residuals.

This fungus is found in Canada. The product was developed by Dr. Alan Watson of McGill University.

Pre-emergents are applied now to kill annual crabgrass and other weeds before they emerge. Barricade is recommended for homeowner use. Corn Gluten is another alternative. This will also feed the lawn nitrogen. It works by thickening the turf over time and needs to be applied twice in a season starting in early spring and in the fall. It takes up to two to three seasons before it is fully effective. Every year there are more and more advances with various weed killer alternatives.

Keep mowing at the proper height, water well and fertilize your lawn in the fall and you will choke out the weeds naturally. A thick, lush lawn is the best alternative to a pre-or post emergent.